How to make inverted pleats
Sewing this 'double' pleat, made with two pleats facing each other
Pleats are folds in fabric held in place at the top. Basically, they are folded along a specific fold line, and the fold is then brought over to align with another line, the placement line. Inverted pleats are actually two pleats that face each other – they have two fold lines and a common placement line. Most are made with a continuous length of fabric folded onto itself, but the exception is an inverted pleat with a separate underlay, or backing piece, stitched to the back.
A pleat will hang best if the fold lines and placement line run along the straight grain of the fabric. Mark the placement line along the top and lower edges of your fabric piece with pins. On each side of the placement line, measure the width of each pleat along the top and lower edges of the fabric piece, and mark with pins. With wrong sides together, fold the fabric along each fold line and press the folds in place.
Working from the right side of the fabric, fold along one of the pressed fold lines and, matching the pins, bring the pressed edge over to align with the centre placement line. Pin in place. Repeat with the second side of the pleat. Tack the pleats in place along the top and lower edges. The top will be held in place by the seam, while the bottom will be hemmed and will hang free after the tacking is removed.
These instructions are taken from 'The Home-sewn Home' by Vanessa Arbuthnott with Gail Abbott (Cico Books, £16.99).
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