How to insert a concealed zip

A concealed zip is inserted so that no stitching shows on the right side of the garment.

It's ideal for the centre-back of dresses or the curved side seam of fitted skirts, or trousers.

Note that the zip is inserted before stitching the seam below it, so check the fit of the garment first.

A special zipper foot may be bought for easier insertion of a concealed zip, or you can use a conventional zipper foot.

1. Neaten the seam allowances. Place the open zip face-down on the right side of the garment with the coil along the seam line and the top stop 2.5cm below the top edge of the fabric. Tack in place. If you are using a regular zipper foot, press the coil away from the zip tape and stitch close to the coil. Alternatively, with a special zipper foot, let one groove of the foot slide over the coil as shown. In either case, stitch down to the slider and backstitch to secure the ends.

2. Repeat for second side of zip (diagram shows a regular zipper foot being used). Carefully close the zip. If the zip is not completely concealed on the right side, the stitching is not close enough to the coil. Restitch both sides closer to the coil.

3. Close the zip again. Pin and tack the seam below the zip. Still using a zipper foot, stitch downwards from the bottom of the zip for a few cm. Change to a regular sewing foot to complete the seam.

4. Stitch lower ends of zip tape to seam allowances only.









5. Open out the zip and stitch across the top of the zip tapes with the coil in the rolled-back position for easier fastening.

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