Somewhere to stay: Gravetye Manor, West Sussex :: Hotel reviews

Traditionally, January and February are the months when staying indoors with the central heating cranked up seems by far the best option. But Gravetye Manor's two-night Breath of Fresh Air package is designed to encourage guests to embrace the great outdoors during those dark post-Christmas days, safe in the knowledge we'll be enjoying the height of laid-back luxury when we head back to the hotel as darkness falls.

In the interests of full disclosure, I should mention that my husband Tom and I took our one-night sample trip in early December when the most stubborn of the autumn leaves were still clinging to the trees. But that aside, if we ignored the fairy lights and shunned the stunning Christmas tree in reception, it could just have easily been mid-January...

What's the hotel like?

Gravetye Manor is a small country house hotel set in 1,000 acres of wooded parklands and gardens, just a few miles from East Grinstead, Surrey. The gardens - still hugely impressive, but admittedly not at their absolute finest during the winter months - were designed by the great Victorian gardener William Robinson. The walled kitchen garden provides the hotel's fine restaurant with fresh fruit and vegetables throughout the year.

What are the rooms like?

There are 17 guest rooms in total - and we were lucky enough to stay in the exclusive deluxe Ash. (All the rooms are named after trees from the estate, you see.) The wood-panelled bedroom boasts plenty of storage space, a dining table and chairs, a dressing table, two armchairs and a flatscreen television. The huge windows allow lovely views across the gardens - while further horticultural inspiration comes in the form of coffee table books about flora and fauna that are scattered around the room.

But these tasteful tomes aren't the only thoughtful little extras that made this room extra special. A few more examples? A fridge packed with complimentary fresh milk, fruit juices and Gravetye spring water; a kettle, coffee machine and choice of teas; a hot water bottle; a jar of sweets; another jar of delicious biscotti; a manicure set; a shoe-care kit; towelling robes; slippers; wi-fi and several pretty plants. I appreciate it's not really in the spirit of the package - but you could be forgiven for not venturing outside at all.

How's the bed?

Amazing! The huge hand-crafted four-poster had huge plush pillows, a cosy winter duvet and lush fabric covers. See what I mean about not wanting to go outside?

What's in the bathroom?

I'm only slightly exaggerating when I say the bathroom is approximately the same size as our house. There's a massive bath, separate shower cubicle, his 'n' hers sinks and - obviously - a loo. The room is well stocked with sweet-smelling Noble Isle toiletries. And again there are lots of little extras - such as laundry flakes in case you need to do a spot of hand-washing after a particularly muddy walk.

What about restaurants and bars?

As in all the best country house hotels, you only need set foot in a public area and a quick-off-the-mark staff member will magically appear and offer you a pot of tea or something stronger. There are several reception rooms and a lounge bar where guests can enjoy drinks, afternoon tea or a leisurely lunch.

But Gravetye's jewel in the culinary crown is an elegant wood-panelled restaurant, presided over by head chef George Blogg, who honed his skills in some of the world's most famous kitchens, including The Ledbury and Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons. Service in the restaurant is attentive but not too fussy or formal.

How's the food?

Delicious, inventive and beautifully presented. Naturally, the focus here is on fresh, local produce. Diners can order à la carte or opt for a seven-course tasting menu. There's also an extensive wine list - and a very knowledgable sommelier who's more than happy to talk you through which wines may pair best with your chosen dishes.

Tom and I are both vegetarian - but were still spoilt for choice from the separate veggie menu. I opted for baked spaghetti squash, charred leek and sherry reduction to start - followed by potato and thyme pressing, horn of plenty mushrooms, sprouting broccoli, shallot and autumn truffle. Tom was equally impressed with his roasted celeriac velouté, watercress and warm hazelnut brioche - followed up with Jerusalem artichoke risotto, Olde Sussex cheese, roasted parsnip, wilted chard and nasturtium.

If you're a devoted carnivore, it's highly possible none of the above may appeal - but it should still give you some idea of the chef's attention to detail and inventiveness. And from eavesdropping in the restaurant, I can report that other diners were equally enthused by the venison, goose and scallops.

Anything else?

Seeing as the whole point of this package is to get some fresh air in winter, you'll be pleased to hear we did eventually head out - albeit after a huge breakfast. Gravetye has a good stock of Hunter wellies so guests can make the most of the beautiful grounds, even in winter. A three-and-a-half-mile round walk from the hotel takes you through scenic woodlands to The The Cat Inn at West Hoathly. We loved this walk - especially when we spotted a herd of deer peeping back at us from across a field.

What's nearby?

Wakehurst Place - a National Trust botanical garden boasting the world's largest seed conservation project - is only four miles from Gravetye. And if you're keen to explore more lovely gardens, Sheffield Park - which was initially laid out by Capability Brown - is a little further away at 11 miles. Fancy a ride on a steam train? The Bluebell Railway is just down the road.

How much is it and how do I book?

The Breath of Fresh Air package includes two nights' shared accommodation for two people, breakfast on both mornings, a three-course dinner on one night, a pint at The Cat Inn and two entry tickets to Wakehurst Place, from £550 in a classic double in January and February. To book, call 01342 810567. Find out more at www.gravetyemanor.co.uk