Somewhere to stay: Prestonfield, Edinburgh

What's the hotel like?

As you pull up into the gravelled driveway, the white facade of this 17th-century mansion gives away nothing of the riot of colour, fabrics and furnishings that await you at the top of the entrance steps. I was expecting something special, having read about the dark, extravagant beauty of James Thomson’s other Edinburgh institution, The Witchery restaurant, but honestly, wow. I’ve never experienced a hotel like this, a hotel so comfortable in its flamboyance that on entering it you’re immediately tempted to overdress.

Prestonfield is a celebration of modern opulence and maximalism, that pays its respects to the history and baroque drama of the original building, built in 1687 and home to Edinburgh’s Lord Provost, without losing any of its contemporary glamour. A wide central corridor leads you past richly upholstered rooms and salons, bowing under the weight of perfectly sourced antiques and luxurious fabric, on past the exquisite dining rooms of the hotel’s restaurant Rhubarb, until finally you arrive at reception, which itself, is a riot of pink and black lacquer. We excitedly made our way to our room, trailing behind a kilt-clad member of staff who was kindly carrying our bags.

What are the bedrooms like?

Well, I gasped. Seriously, I did. As soon as the heavy black door was pushed open and I stepped into the room, I gasped. They get that a lot apparently, and so they should, because as far as bedrooms go, this was pretty spectacular. The hotel has 23 rooms and suites, and each one is decorated with Prestonfield’s trademark baroque opulence. Ours was a dark, romantic, rhapsody of pink and velvet with double-aspect views over the grounds and Edinburgh’s iconic hill, Arthur’s Seat. The room was incredibly spacious, with an enormous, beautiful bed holding court in the centre, with a small table, a pair of pink velvet chairs, a writing desk and a rich mahogany dresser, artfully placed around the edges. The dresser housed a large plasma TV and the mini bar and each of the windows were dressed in heavy, flocked curtains with giant silk tassels. We quickly became accustomed to our opulent digs, popping the bottle of chilled champagne that was waiting for us and diving into the cushions that were piled six-deep on the bed.

How's the bed?

The bed was the star of the show as far as we were concerned. An enormous showstopper with a teal green wooden frame, decorative carved headboard and swathed in deep, raspberry crushed velvet and cushions. Don’t go thinking that this was a case of style over substance either, as I am happy to report that this was the most comfortable bed I’ve ever slept in too. Soft and yielding, yet supportive, the mattress was wonderful and waking up to the sensation of crushed velvet wrapped around you, adds a level of unparalleled romance.

What's in the bathroom?

The bathroom was a large, separate room boasting a giant, perfectly lit mirror, shimmering bronze and red mosaic tiles, an extensive selection of toiletries and a shower over the bath tub. Directly next to the bathroom was a substantial dressing area that could be curtained off from the main room, a detail that I felt really worked - ample wardrobe space, a full length mirror and direct access to the bathroom, made it a perfect space for preening. The wardrobe also housed the coffee machine and an impressive selection of teas.

What about eating and drinking?

Prestonfield’s restaurant Rhubarb has quickly become a destination in its own right for Edinburgh foodies and visitors alike who come to experience both the food and the undeniable glamour of the dining rooms themselves. The large oval rooms are dressed in pink, black and gold and romantically lit with clusters of long, black tapered candles. The menu celebrates locally sourced Scottish produce and offers an à la carte selection as well as a three-course dinner option for just £35. Alongside the restaurant are a collection of smaller lounges and salons full of cosy nooks and antique leather armchairs, perfect for curling up in with a nightcap. The restaurant’s name is a tribute to the fact that Sir Alexander Dick of Prestonfield was the first man to introduce rhubarb to Scotland back in the 18th century, the monogrammed plates are a particularly lovely touch with their sprig of rhubarb insignia.

Breakfast is of an equally high standard and can be booked and enjoyed by non-residents too at a set price of £17.95. I have to say, this was one hell of a hotel breakfast. The dining room lost none of its romantic drama flooded with morning sunshine and the central table heaved with pastries, fresh fruits and silver jugs of juices and smoothies to enjoy first before ordering from the kitchen. We sat by one of the giant windows with a spectacular view of Arthur’s Seat, and greedily ordered duck eggs benedict and the hot smoked Scottish salmon with scrambled eggs. The salmon was a revelation, delicately smoked and served hot in thick cuts rather than the usual pink slivers; I’d have happily polished off another portion!

Anything else?

It would be remiss of me not to mention Prestonfield’s beautiful trio of Highland cows, especially considering the fact that I made a beeline for them morning, noon and night. I first spotted them grazing from the window in our room, and fell in love. In addition to the Scottish wildlife, the hotel is also home to seven peacocks that happily strut around the grounds and offer the most glamorous of early morning wake up calls! It was a real treat watching them display over breakfast.

What's nearby?

Everything that Edinburgh has to offer! It’s amazing really how far removed you feel from the city when you are enjoying the peace and tranquility of the hotel, but you really are only five to 10 minutes from the centre of town. Shopping fans are spoilt for choice with a stroll down Princes Street and I dare you not to partake in a tartan and/or whisky souvenir from the Royal Mile.

A great way to get acquainted with the city is to take an open-top bus tour. Usually around an hour long, you’ll quickly get your bearings and pick up some of the local history too. After your tour you simply have to visit Edinburgh Castle, and here’s a handy tip, you can buy fast-track tickets from the bus tour companies and bypass the queues. The incredible views of the city are worth the admission price on their own.

Edinburgh’s Old Town is particularly beautiful and I would definitely recommend an afternoon exploring the narrow closes that line the Royal Mile, with steep, winding steps that always lead to something worth seeing at the top.

Information and booking

Rooms are £295 per room per night which includes tax, the full breakfast menu for two, parking, wifi, a morning newspaper and a bottle of champagne on arrival. Suites are priced between £365-£425 on the same basis as the rooms. Contact Prestonfield at Prestonfield House, Priestfield Road, Edinburgh E16 5UT or visit www.prestonfield.com

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